CAPPADOCIA
We check into our hotel, which Fatih aptly nicknames the "Flintstone Hotel", for this part of our trip. This structure, originally built by Germans as a resort hotel is located in the middle of nowhere but boasts many amenities, including hot air balloons over the region (for a very hefty fee which we are unwilling to pay). We are disappointed by the weird shaped rooms with small single beds and the vast nothingness to explore in the surrounding area. Any of the sights are miles away. However, we enjoy the buffet meals, the nightly entertainment, and the mingling with other tourists. We are thrilled and amused when Fatih surprises us with his dancing ability during one of our dinners in the hotel dining room.
Breakfast and dinner are included in the trip for most of our trip and often we have buffet meals in our hotel restaurants. This carved pumpkin and watermelon are from a buffet at our hotel in Neveshir. Note the Turkish flag carved into the watermelon in the lower middle of the picture.
Prior to the trip, we didn't know what to expect of food of Turkey. We are pleasantly surprised. There is very little that we don't like. There is always fresh fruit and vegetables. The tomatoes are the best we have tasted anywhere in the world and the fruit is excellent.
The range of food is just too great to get into so we will just scratch the surface. Since it is a Muslim country of course there is no pork. Lamb is very popular and some of the lamb dishes remind us of Greek food. Beef and chicken dishes are also served, and of course there is plenty of fresh fish. Many dishes include pastachio and eggplant dishes abound.When we tour another hotel that is built into the rock we wish that is where we would be staying but know that it is too expensive for our pocketbooks. Nevertheless it is a treat to be given a tour of one of these hotels in town that boasts magnificent views and rooms within the rocks. Next time .... Maybe.
As we travel in the region of Cappadocia we are taught more about the customs and religion of the people of Turkey. We learn that there are four special occasions in a person's life -- circumcision, entrance into the military, one's wedding and funeral. Standing on a hill in a small village we hear the public address system of the town. It is an announcement of the death of one of its citizens and a invitation for the villagers to go to the mosque for prayer.
By now we are accustomed to the calls to worship emanating from the minarets. This occurs at each of the five designated times of prayer between sunrise and sundown. Loudspeakers installed at the top of the minarets now alleviate the need for the muezzin to climb the many steps to the top of the tower to recite public prayers. At this time devote Muslims either travel to the mosque to pray or stop their activities to face Mecca in prayer. Our observation is that even though more than 90 percent of the population of Turkey is Muslim, very few actually stop what they are doing to participate in prayer.
Although the calls to worship become very familiar, we continue to be awed by the gorgeous minarets that reach into the sky all over Turkey. Each mosque has at least one minaret.
No words can describe and no photographs can capture the wonder of the Cappadocia region of Turkey. It is sometimes called the Valley of the Fairy Chimneys. The scenery certainly does look like something out of a fairy tale.
Our first glimpse is by the light of the full moon and it is truly enchanting. We don't even try to take photos but will always carry the visual images with us.
Cappadocia consists of miles and miles of formations made up of tufa, a white substance, and volcanic rock. The phallic symbols, mushroom shaped rocks, animal and fantasy formations exist as far of the eye can see. One looks just like a kneeling camel.
Homes, churches, stores and even hotels are carved within these rocks.
The grates you see in the windows in the picture above are for pigeons to enter. The pigeons co-existed with people and were fed in order to encourage them to take up residence. Their droppings were collected and sold for fertilizer.
We see several churches with beautiful original frescos on the walls and ceilings, depicting scenes from Jesus' life and other biblical events. These frescos were originally painted to teach Christianity to those who couldn't read or write. St. Basil's, dating back to the 11th century, was one of many in that area. We also tour the Appled Church, St. Barbara, called the Warrior Church, and the Vipered Church. The frescos are being restored in these ancient churches in this region and are quite impressive. We learn that one reason they were in such a state of disrepair is that people would take a piece of fresco, put it in water and drink the water. It was considered the best medicine for everything in the world. Now we can see scenes depicting the christening of Christ by St. John the Baptist, the Last Supper, the betrayal of Judas, the Ascension, and Jesus' entry in Jerusalem, among others.
St. Basil's Church
The Christians left the area in 1924 with the founding of the Republic of Turkey and have not been very welcome in Turkey since that time.
Below is one the police stations that we see in this region. We are able to take a picture of this one because it is in a popular tourist area. In other parts of Turkey it is not permissible to take pictures of policemen, the military, or their facilities.
Jendarma (Police) Station
Cappadocia is also a center of jewelry making, rug weaving and pottery making. We tour factories for each of these arts and find the processes quite interesting.
This is also the part of the trip where we were supposed to see the whirling dervish performance. Our guide tells us that, because of the dearth of tourists, the performance has been cancelled. Since this was one of the things we had most eagerly anticipated, it is very disappointing news.
We do see traditional folk dances and find it fun. Neither of us is particularly taken with the belly dancing, which dominates the show, but which is a required element. We are more partial to and appreciative of the pace, rhythm and energy of the other dancers. We especially enjoy the men's performances. We decide that Turkish men must be among the most handsome in the world and we make a point to make that announcement to Hakan, Murat, and Fatih!
As we leave the Cappadocia region and are on our way to Urfa we take several side trips. One is to Karum, the site of the ancient palace of Hitite kings. There we are greeted by a large fierce military group and a large group of school children on a field trip. It is kind of an eerie feeling to be out in the middle of nowhere with the huge military presence and not knowing exactly what is going on. We learn later that the law enforcement bodies are called jendarma in rural areas and polis in the cities. All are part of a national system and their presence is everywhere in the country.
Another stop is Fatih's home town, Kahramanmaras. He surprises us with a visit to meet his father at his law office and a feast of baklava and ice cream, for which the town is famous. It is the first of several surprises that Fatih will spring on us and we discover that he is quite good at it.
Baklava in Kahramanmaras
And then on to Urfa and the Biblical areas of the country which we are eager to see.
On to Urfa, Mt. Nemrud and Harran
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