ISTANBUL
September 2001.
We are finally on our way to Turkey. We have been in a bit of a daze ever since September 11th. As we drive toward New York City we are numb. Miles from the city, when we approach Newark, NJ, we can smell the smoke. We decide to avoid the area around the remains of the WTC for now and pay our respects on our return trip.
There are US flags displayed everywhere. Hanging from windows, over balconies, attached to the sides of houses and apartments, on cars. We even see one man carrying a flag the size that fronts bands and parades as he walks around the track across from our hotel. We are very touched.
We notice very little air traffic as we approach JFK International Airport and it makes us feel very sad. We wonder if people's fear is going to cripple the economy and will become an even greater hit than the attacks themselves.
When we arrive at the airport, hours early for our flight, there are military, national guard, and police everywhere. Approaching the airport, at the entrances and exits to the building, and especially around the entrance to the gates. One person is yelled at for taking a picture of the extremely long lines. He is told, "No pictures allowed." As we pass through our first security checkpoint, which is guarded by US Customs, US marshals, and the Border Patrol, the security personnel confiscate a pair of tweezers that we didn't even know we were carrying. We had been so careful to put our razors, pocket knife, and other questionable items in our check-in luggage rather than our carry-ons. The world has changed overnight.
We are pleased that we are flying Turkish Airlines. From Tom's previous experience its security is very tight. Our flight is about 1/3 full, service is great, and our 9-hour flight is uneventful, although people are awfully quiet. Most people on board are Turkish, returning home. One person we meet and have extensive conversations with is Betty who is going back to her home country after living in the US for 11 years. She is a US citizen and plans to move back to Connecticut after she spends time in Turkey with her children, grieving the recent death of her husband. She assures us that the US and Turkey are "close like brothers" and we will be very safe there.
When we arrive in Turkey we are greeted by Fatih, who will be our guide for the next three weeks. He is a Ph.D. student in archaeology who has a passion for his field. He tells us that after he takes us to our hotel, the Eresin, (which is advertised as 5-star but isn't), we can rest for an hour or so and then will begin our tour. We are exhausted and just want to sleep but he won't let us beg off.
Prior to our departure, when our friends and family expressed their worry about our traveling to this part of the world, we would tell them, "The most dangerous thing about Turkey is the traffic in Istanbul." We had read that in guidebooks and Tom knew from his previous visit that the traffic is incredible. However, we quickly discover that the drivers all seem to know the rules, even though we can't figure them out, and we are amazed, (in retrospect after our trip), that in the more than 2500 miles we cover in our trip we will only see two accidents, both minor. Neither of them are in Istanbul. We don't do a whole lot of walking so we aren't certain what crossing the street in the different cities might entail.
Istanbul TrafficThe first stop is a visit to the military museum and a performance by a traditional military band. We could have done without the museum although it is interesting. We are just too tired to enjoy it. However, the band is quite enjoyable.
Dinner is at Gelik, a restaurant we travel to in the coach. We have a sampler of salad, lamb dishes, beef bulgari, rice dishes, chicken, pudding, plantain -- all nicely seasoned. And Fatih is good about explaining what each dish is, as he will do throughout the trip. He explains that dishes that use olive oil are made a day ahead and served cold, while hot dishes are prepared on the same day.
Sleep. Blessed sleep at our hotel. It is in the Topkapi area of the city but not as close to the Topkapi Palace as we had thought. We are quite close to some of the old city walls and have a good view of them from our window.
Day Two -- A little more rested, we begin our tour of Istanbul. We learn that it is the only city in the world that is located in both Asia and Europe. In the days that lie ahead we will be traveling across the Sea of Marmara, from one continent to another, and back, as we tour Turkey.
We have our first glimpse of the Blue Mosque. It is one of the grand sights of the world. Unlike most mosques we visited, the Blue Mosque is fronted by lovely grounds and gardens. This allows you to approach it from a distance and take in its beautiful design. Built from 1603 to 1616, it is the only mosque in the world with six minarets. Its name derives from the magnificent blue tiles in the interior.
Pictures cannot capture the beauty of the interior. Here is just one view of a ceiling.
At the Hippodrome, where Fatih is giving us a lengthy and complete lecture which will serve as the backdrop for much of the rest of our tour, Marie is fascinated by the people in the area around the site. This includes the man pictured at beginning of this section who dispenses cherry juice from the tank on his back. When someone wants some of this traditional Turkish drink, he simply bends over to pour the juice into a cup.
It is interesting to us to see people in all types of dress. Western and eastern. In different kinds of head coverings. As well as the groups we photograph, we saw young lovers who were quite intimate. These are contrasts we will see all over Turkey. It was not unusual to see women in veils walking hand in hand with men in western wear. We see adolescent students in their school uniforms, some with head coverings and others bareheaded, walking together.
Later we are educated about the various reasons that women wear veils -- not all of them religious. It may be a form of modesty. Sometimes it is simply for practical purposes in order to protect oneself from the elements of nature. Other times it is the tradition of the family. It might be in deference to older members of the family or it may be from pressure from the women in the family. There are also regional differences. Finally, it can be a fashion statement since some women own very beautiful head coverings and what to display them.
Suleyman MosqueSuleyman mosque, honors Suleyman (1520-1566) the Ottoman Empire's greatest ruler. It's imposing presence makes the skyline of Istanbul one of the most memorable in the world
St. SophiaThis is a view of St. Sophia's, which is not open on our first full day in Istanbul, from a window of the Suleyman mosque. So we will have to save it for when we return.
Kitchens of Topkapi PalaceTopkapi was the palace of the Ottoman rulers from 1453 to 1809. The famous harem (which we didn't see!) was actually the living quarters of the sultan and was ruled over by his mother. In addition, there were the various courts from which the empire's business was conducted and the vast kitchens which prepared meals for 5000 people each day.
The Janissary corps was the imperial guard of the Ottoman sultan and owed him total obedience. To make up the corps, the Sultan's representatives gathered up ten-year-old boys from Christian villages in the Balkans. The boys were taken to Istanbul, converted to Islam and educated. Over time, the Janissaries' privileged and powerful status "spoiled" them. They became corrupt and often challenged the power of the sultanate. Their unique way to show their displeasure was to turn over the kettles in the kitchens. After a history of 350 years, they were destroyed in 1826 by the western style army of Mehmet II.
We visit the largest of the underground cisterns that supplied water to Istanbul. It was built in the 6th century and brought water from the Black Sea to the city. This cistern still has water in it and we were surprised by the number of fish that make it home.
With this our final stop in Istanbul before leaving for other parts of the country, the other things we want to see in this great city will have to wait for our return trip in a couple of weeks. We still want to see the spice markets, the Grand Bazaar, the interior of St. Sophia's and other places. We also are looking forward to a cruise on the Bosphorus. However, for now we are eager to travel on to Ankara and to exciting adventures in the interior of the country.
