A Few Days in Rainy London
The next stop of our trip was London. We originally did not plan to go there but our trip had to be routed through there both on our way to Spain and as we left Europe for Korea. It is a city that we like and we thought it would be a nice interlude in our travels. Besides we wanted to see a good friend, Chise. So we decided to stay a couple of days.
The last time we were in London we spent a week just exploring and doing all of the tourist things, Buckingham Palace with the changing of the guards, The Tower of London, Tower Bridge, the Globe Theater (our personal favorite), Trafalgar Square, Picadilly Circus, St. Martin's in the Field, Big Ben, Parliament, a trip to Windsor Castle, etc. In addition we included special treats which included Freud's studio which contained his famous couch (on right)
and Tom had an "audience" with the stuffed body of Jeremy Bentham. However, we didn't have enough time to see as much of the British Museum as we wanted and Harrods was closed when we went there, so we didn't see the inside. We also wanted to visit some of the literary haunts if we had time.
As usual, it was the unexpected things that we found most interesting.
We decided to stay in the Russell Square section again. It is conveniently located close to the the British Museum, near Charles Dickens' home and the homes of other writers and artists, and has the feel of old London. Even though it is no longer the "in place" to stay we like it a lot with its interesting restaurants, shops, parks, and neighborhood feel. Besides, it is not as expensive as other parts of the city and it is right on the Piccadilly line of the subway (tube).
Through the Internet we found a place that seemed reasonable and looked like it would be convenient for us. We knew it wasn't upscale but thought it would be just fine for a couple of days. And so we made reservations at the St. Athans Hotel.
We arrived at the airport only to discover that Winter had returned to London with a vengeance after a particularly warm early spring. Thus beautiful colorful spring flowers in bloom had been tricked and didn't know what to do, as more than one Londoner told us. Icy cold, driving rain was to continue throughout our stay. It was the first time and only time in our trip that we really could have used the zip-in linings to our all-weather coats which, of course, we didn't bring.
As we were processed through customs we had no problems and, in fact, had never been stopped by customs in any of our travels up until that point (that would await us in Australia). But there on the floor in front of the customs agents was a lady lying unconscious. We have no idea what happened - we hope it wasn't something an agent said! -but we heard the ambulance sirens as they approached.
Our next stop was at "checked luggage" where we left our large suitcase. Since we planned to be informal in London and just relax and take it easy, we left our "dress up" clothes and other non-essential things so that we would not have to drag all that weight around during our brief stay. This was one of the better deals in London, which @3.50 British pounds per day for three days would be the equivalent of about $16 US. Well worth it.
Everyone at the airport (as well as throughout London we were later to discover) was friendly and helpful and we welcomed the dry British sense of humor. We were delighted to discover an innovation with the transportation system since our last trip to London, two years previously. The Piccadilly line had been extended all the way to the airport and we would not have to take a bus for what had seemed, on our previous visit, to have been an interminable ride into the city. The cost (about $5 US) was also a bargain compared to about $15 for a bus.
It was sometime during this one-hour ride that we heard an announcement that one of the main stations was closed due to a bomb threat. That jogged our minds and we remembered that we had heard the same kind of announcements on previous occasions. We were reminded that IRA threats are very common in London.
Without too much trouble and after asking only two people for help we found the St. Athans and our first thought was that it was just one step up from a flea bag hotel. We were tired and maybe a bit cranky and were sorely disappointed that we would not have a private bath as we thought. We thought we had reserved a room with a private bath but apparently had not, so it meant that we had to walk up or down a short flight of steps to use one of the shared baths. Of course that might be a bit of a problem with Tom's kidney infection. Besides, our room was on the street level with a window that opened onto a busy sidewalk and it felt like all of London could come in through the window.
On closer inspection we decided that the place was clean and that it would do for just three nights. The price was right (we were already discovering that prices had almost doubled for many things in the last two years). A full English breakfast was included, and best of all, our rooom had a double bed, when we had had to settle for single beds throughout the Spain tour. It was time to reframe our thinking. After showers and collapsing onto the bed we decided to treat this as a camping experience -- with the exception that we had a bed to sleep on!
In the morning we discovered that an English breakfast includes Heinz baked beans out of the can, sausage, fried eggs, fatty bacon (none cooked very well-done in Europe), cooked tomato, orange juice, coffee, and cereal. A bit more than we are used to eating. Looking around we decided that we could stay there just fine. There were other older people when we thought the night before that there were only young back-packers in residence.
In close proximity to the hotel we found a Laundromat, where we could wash jeans and other things that we hadn't been able to wash by hand in our previous hotel rooms; several Internet cafes where we could check our email for the first time; a post office where we could mail the things we had bought in Rome and Spain and the things we were going to buy in London; and some inviting small restaurants with many ethnic foods, as well as a couple of English pubs. It was a nice section for walking and it was good to hear English again.
Some of the things we had forgotten about -- no ice for drinks in Europe, no washcloths in bathrooms, and we burned out the element in our portable hot cup because of using the incorrect electrical adapter. We reminded ourselves to add a couple of things to our list of things to include on future trips. Then on to the Goose and Granite where we ordered (and ate!) artery clogging bangers & mash with gravy and hot fudge cake with ice cream. Yum --- Guess that eating like that once in a blue moon is not too awful. Besides, since we began this trip we discovered that we would not eat as we usually do at home -- very little meat of any kind and lots of fresh fruit and vegetables. We have tried to eat the cuisine of the area as much as possible to add to our cultural experiences.
The first day, after taking care of our washing, email, and post office needs, we went to the British Museum for awhile. And then on to Harrods. What a delight. No pictures are allowed in the store except at the special shrine to Dodi and Di which includes their pictures, a ring that she supposedly was given by him as an engagement ring, and a wine glass --
all a bit overdone just like the store itself. Still it is a "must see" and we were entranced as we wandered from one elaborate department to another, discovering that the prices were not too bad, and wondering if anyone from England ever shops there -- or whether it is frequented only by tourists.
The highlight of our trip was definitely the dinner we had at a private
Gentleman's club that was only lacking Sir John Gielgud. Our friend, Chise, (on left in front of Windsor Castle with Tom) had called and said she wanted to take us to someplace special for dinner. But, who could expect to dine at the Liberal Club, founded by William Gladstone in the 19th century? First we had obligatory gin and tonics, in a huge, very proper, very heavily paneled drawing room, complete with massive fireplaces and card playing members who sat in silence as they played. After the correct period of time of polite conversation, it was time to go into the dining room. There was a problem. Since we had left our good clothes in a suitcase back at the airport, of course Tom was not properly dressed. Fortunately, the club is prepared for any emergency, and from its stockpile of dinner jackets, found one in almost Tom's size.
And so we went to the dining room, also heavily paneled, high ceilinged and massive, where only one other table was occupied. Our wine and dinner were ordered in good time and in formal fashion. We had broccoli soup, salmon in pepper crust with vegetables, and banana creme brulee for dessert -- of course all cooked to perfection. As we left the dining room to adjourn to the outer room for an after dinner chat by the fire, the waiters hugged Chise good-bye as they had done with the regulars at the other table.
In fact, we were impressed with how informal and jovial the waiters were in this very formal, upper crust, English club. Quite a nice contrast. As we left we wondered how we could possibly describe this place and this experience. No pictures were allowed, of course, -- since that would be just too plebian you know -- so we just ask you to think of the movies and the gentleman's clubs -- and you've got it. Definitely an interesting experience that we will keep with us in memory.
In the area around the club, near the Embankment station we discovered a lovely garden and Tom was pleased to meet up with Bobby Burns.
Also in the same area, we saw the Ferris wheel made famous during the millenium celebration. The queen was supposed to ride on it to welcome the new millenium but there was some kind of glitch and it wasn't ready. Now people can go on a half-hour ride that costs about 16 British pounds and tickets are reserved months in advance.
So, alas, Tom was very disappointed that we could not ride it. Maybe next time?!
Early the next morning we took the tube back to the airport without mishap, again remarking how easy to is compared to last time. And we knew that we want to come back to this city over and over. We just hope the prices are reasonable next time or we won't be able to afford it.
Meanwhile, Cheerio, -- hope you will come join us as we travel to Korea for a quite different cultural experience and the next leg of our trip.
