Table of Contents
Introduction
Chapter 1
Vietnam
Chapter 2
New Home
in Kofu
Chapter 3
Hong Kong
China,
&
Korea
Chapter 4
Yamanashi
Chapter 5
Society
Chapter 6
Hospital
Chapter 7
Nikko
Chapter 8
Holiday
Greetings
Chapter 9
Culture
Chapter 10
Holiday
Trip:
Kansai
&
Kyushu
Chapter 11
Mores
Chapter 12
Hankos
& Brush-
writing
Chapter13
Friends
Chapter 14
Festivities
Chapter 15
Okinawa
&
Nagasaki
Chapter 16
Hong Kong
&
Australia
Chapter 17
Special
People
&
Events
Chapter 18
Coming
to
Japan
Chapter 19
Letter to
Editor
Chapter 20
Teaching
English
Chapter 21 Hamamatsu
Chapter 22
Women's
Relation-
ships
Chapter 23
Reflections
on
Education
Chapter 24
Nephews'
Visit
Chapter 25
Thailand,
Korea
&
Home
Chapter 26
Taking
Stock
Chapter 2
New Home in Kofu
September 8,1995
Dear Robin,
I have been missing you and wanting to call you but have been afraid to spend the money. Tom gets paid on the 20th and we should have a better idea of where we stand then. We thought that we could use a Visa card to get a cash advance, but it seems that it is impossible to do here. That is really weird since we could use our Visa card in Vietnam, China, Hong Kong, etc. We could have Sally wire us some money but it seems like too much bother. Prices are astronomical, so thank heavens we only have to buy groceries and pay for our utilities.
We are gradually getting settled in and have established a bit of a routine. Each morning Tom and I walk to school (about a mile). Then I go to the train station to get the Japan Times (an English language newspaper). Usually I go for a long walk to explore the city and have been averaging about 10-12 miles a day.
Washing clothes is an adventure and something that must be done almost every day. The washing machine holds about a half dozen small articles or maybe two pairs of slacks. It is more primitive than the one Grandma used on the farm. It has to be filled manually with cold water, because hot water is not available for washing clothes. Then the water is turned off at the faucet and the timer is set for the agitator. After the wash cycle, the drain is opened, and the water drained. The same process is repeated for rinsing the clothes. Next, one or two articles at a time are put through the spinner. As there is no dryer, all the clothes except the underwear get hung outside on the narrow balconies. Underwear, which is unseemly to display, and which could be stolen, is supposed to dry on a drying rack in the bathroom. Quite an adventure. I promise to never complain about doing laundry at home. So far two of Tom's best pairs of slacks have been ruined in trying to take stains out. We had no idea that all the laundry detergent we could find has bleach in it. With the language barrier, it is fun to try to figure out labels. (The picture to the right is a modern one in a friend's apartment. It is an automatic washer but about the same size as the one we had.)
We shop almost daily for fresh fruit and vegetables because the refrigerator is too small to hold much, and there are fresh produce stands all over the city. The refrigerator is about the height of my waist and you know I am a short person. (The picture on the left is not of our refrigerator but one in a friend's apartment that we took during a later trip to Japan just to give you and idea. It is actually bigger than the one we had.)
Having almost no recipes and trying to create something of the groceries we are able to get is an adventure. Last night we lucked out and made superb eggplant parmesan. We are glad that we brought the Crockpot because we use it a lot. Thank heavens it does work. I haven't tried baking yet because it has been too hot. But the brown sugar we bought is not like Domino's -- it is more the consistency of white sugar. It is doubtful that we will be able to find whole-wheat flour. (We are glad we brought some bread mixes. We may ask you to send us some more.)
We haven't seen chocolate chips in any grocery store, either. At some point we will probably take a trip to Tokyo to an international grocery store.
People have been wonderful to us. Our apartment is one of the nicest ones the school could find in the city. Teachers stocked it with groceries and fresh flowers for our arrival, and when we try to thank them, they just give us more gifts. Today it was two desserts and some flower tea. Tom says there is no way to catch up because they always "outgift" you. However, we do want to find a way to thank our special friends who provided us with two bikes to use during this year. We would like to get each of them a jogging outfit for Christmas and might ask for your help with that.
There have been several special events since we arrived, including a school festival, an organ recital, and a jazz concert. The school festival which is today and tomorrow is quite impressive. It includes a singing competition, classical concert (instrumental - mostly piano), an English language drama ("Fiddler on the Roof" and another shorter play), a Japanese drama, handbell choir recital, mandolin performance, an auction, a garage sale, and many displays and food booths. I wish you could see it. There is no way to capture on tape the spirit, talent, sweetness and naiveté of these students. I will be doing some work with them, as Tom has asked me to help him teach some of his ethics classes. Next week we will be talking about gender issues.
Yamanashi Eiwa Gakuin -- Tom's School
View of Fuji from Eiwa
I am not looking for work and haven't been bored. I want to be free to entertain company when they arrive, and know that the year will really go fast. I am trying to soak up the culture as much as possible. The everyday occurrences are fascinating. Yesterday when going for a walk, I enjoyed various activities that are foreign to us, but culturally intrinsic here. Policemen going through their change of shift routine reminded me of the changing of the guards at the tomb of the unknown soldier, except that they weren't silent. They were chanting in unison. Four young businessmen in dress pants, white shirts and ties were jogging around the block in step as they chanted. A junior high student body was performing a marching and exercise routine of some sort prior to the beginning of classes. Through the eyes of a westerner it seemed like a combination of a military drill, a motivational rally, and calisthenics. Kindergarten children were singing a folk song sweetly and with pure joy. Workers at the various shops and department stores were scrubbing the sidewalks in front of the stores prior to the opening for the day, and the clerks bowed with great ceremony to customers at the beginning of the work day. People getting gas were greeted loudly and enthusiastically by bowing attendants. Two or three would help service the car. After the tank was filled, a worker stepped into the street to stop traffic and wave the customer back into the stream of cars. As the customer pulled away, all of the attendants again bowed in appreciation and thanks.
Everywhere there are bicycles propelled by people of all ages, and motor scooters also are common. Senior citizens, young children on their way to school, young housewives, and businessmen dressed in their office clothes, with their two-wheeled vehicles all share space with pedestrians and automobiles.We will never be able to figure out what the traffic rules are here.
I've been to temples and shrines and walked through grape fields and peach orchards. This is the heart of grape growing in Japan and they are just coming into season, and they are good. (Here people peel the grapes before eating them.) They come in a variety of colors and sizes. There are vineyards on the outskirts of Kofu where people come from all over to tour. Tom says they are very commercial and we may not do that bit. We will see. The rice fields are just about ready to be harvested and that is an interesting process to watch.
Beauty is an important part of the culture and the gardens, trees, and flowers are stunning. This picture is the view from our bedroom window of the house behind our apartment building. That is fairly typical landscaping here. (We are amused to see and hear the man of the house washing his car every night about 10:00!)
I'm certain all kinds of important things have been left out, but will try to fill you in as we go along. We hope you got the first form letter we wrote. It is taking about a week for us to get mail. So far we have received two letters from Grandma and one from Tom's mother.
If you are interested in putting together a care package for us, we have been making a list of things we could use. None of it is vital but would be nice to have. We would like you to get the money from Sally from my account. We are doing a lot of walking and could use some more moleskin, Band-Aids, and sun block. Stain stick is the one thing I could really use for laundry. Ziploc bags of different sizes and even garbage bags would be useful. We are running out of coffee and found that the envelopes of different kinds of coffee have been nice to use. We will buy some coffee here but I'm not certain what is available or what it will cost. We are also enjoying using the different kinds of tea bags you got us for Christmas, so special tea bags are nice. We have been making sun tea every day. Foodstuffs that we would really like include cereal, lasagna noodles, and things like granola bars or other snack foods. We had brought crackers and cookies that we got at Sam's and have been enjoying them. (If you want special points with Tom you can send him chocolate-covered peanuts!). We sent over 3 large boxes of cereal that we bought with money-off coupons, and we are glad we did. The cereal we have found is about $4 for a very small box and there is little to choose from. You can use your judgment with the cereal. We just don't want the sugary, silly kinds.
I would like to read Hawaii while we are here if you happen to see it in a bookstore. We have both finished Celestine Prophecy and have had some interesting discussions around it. Tom is now reading a Peck book (A Bed by the Window) and I have been reading Composing Lives (You might like both of those.) I just finished a book called Wild Swans. I think you would like it and that Grandma might also. If you see it in a bookstore you might consider getting it for yourself.
We do have one special request. We would like a queen-size electric blanket for winter. Our apartment has no central heat (or air) so keeping it a comfortable temperature might be a challenge. It will be heated with kerosene space heaters in the winter, but Tom says they can't be left on all night. So we think an electric blanket might be a good idea.
We miss you and I get homesick to see you. We especially miss seeing Alyssa changing and growing. Hope you are doing well. Maybe I will talk to you before too long.
Hi Robin! It's Tom. Your mom just went to take a bath and she asked me to add a few lines. First, thanks a bunch for taking care of the mailing for us. I don't think we realized what we were asking of you until we printed the letter and the address list. We really do appreciate all of the work. Our "rule" will be that we will send the next installment of our travelogue only to those who ask for it. The list of foods, etc. is a wish list. Please don't go out of your way (too much) to gather everything that we requested in the care box. We have found that we enjoy improvising with what's on hand. But, to be honest, foods from home would be nice! Also, your mom will need the moleskin -- she's becoming a walking machine and enjoying it every step of the way.
Give our best to John and a special hug and kiss to Alyssa.
Love,
Mom and Tom
Update: September 16, 1999. I just finished reading a novel, The Strangeness of Beauty by Lydia Minatoya. She explained many of the things about Japanese culture and everyday activities that help me better understand the Japanese woman's everyday life. Although her book covers three generations of Japanese women who lived both in America and Japan over a period of many years and many of the customs described may no longer apply, the cultural context was enlightening.
Now I see housework in a different light and somehow a part of wa, the order and harmony of all things. It might be an interesting book for you to read.
