Table of Contents
Introduction
Chapter 1
Vietnam
Chapter 2
New Home
in Kofu
Chapter 3
Hong Kong
China,
&
Korea
Chapter 4
Yamanashi
Chapter 5
Society
Chapter 6
Hospital
Chapter 7
Nikko
Chapter 8
Holiday
Greetings
Chapter 9
Culture
Chapter 10
Holiday
Trip:
Kansai
&
Kyushu
Chapter 11
Mores
Chapter 12
Hankos
& Brush-
writing
Chapter13
Friends
Chapter 14
Festivities
Chapter 15
Okinawa
&
Nagasaki
Chapter 16
Hong Kong
&
Australia
Chapter 17
Special
People
&
Events
Chapter 18
Coming
to
Japan
Chapter 19
Letter to
Editor
Chapter 20
Teaching
English
Chapter 21 Hamamatsu
Chapter 22
Women's
Relation-
ships
Chapter 23
Reflections
on
Education
Chapter 24
Nephews'
Visit
Chapter 25
Thailand,
Korea
&
Home
Chapter 26
Taking
Stock
Chapter 21
Hamamatsu Kite Festival
May 10, 1996
Dear Friends,
Today it is raining. Maybe the herald of the rainy season. (Mrs. Hanawa says it will rain every day in May and June.) We can't complain about that because Kofu desperately needs rain, and we have had very little the whole time we have been here. Besides, spring has been spectacular.
Our recent spring sights have included a famous ancient (1,000 years old?) cherry tree in full bloom at Jindaizakura, acres and acres of flowering peach trees of different varieties in different locations, a half-mile long stretch of white, and dark & light pink dogwoods lining one of our main streets, and many flowering cherry trees, as well as an amazing variety of azaleas in bloom in various parts of the country. The cherry blossom (sakura) has been the national flower of Japan since ancient times -- because of its extraordinary beauty, but also due to its ephemeral nature. (The samurai saw a connection between its short life and theirs, since it was part of their code to die at a moment's notice for their lord.) The rose, on the other hand, clings to the vine after it blooms as if it's afraid of death -- so they say.
Since our last letter we have had many adventures in Kofu, several day trips, and one long weekend trip. One of the most exciting things to happen in Kofu was the Emperor's visit. He and the Empress came for 3 days. Their itinerary, route, and time table for travel was published and distributed to guarantee a crowd wherever they went, and all along their route spectators were given Japanese flags to wave as they went by. It was exciting. Marie saw them twice -- more by happenstance than by careful planning - and was able to take a couple of pictures (too distant to be good), but Tom had to teach and didn't have a chance to be part of that particular excitement.
We mentioned in our last letter that we were going to a reenactment of the battle of Kawanakajima -- Takeda Shingen's most famous battle. That was fun, hokey at times, noisy, and contrived. Smudge pots, firing of 16th century muzzle loaders, the amplified sounds of horses and soldiers over the PA system and a leather lunged announcer all added to the mood. The participants were primarily high school and college students who were paid to participate and they had a great time. They seemed to enjoy getting sliced in half and falling off of the bridge into the river. We were surprised at how many young women took part. One of the neatest things about the day was that a group from Germany attended the reenactment. It is a group which has avidly studied the battle, recreated all the costumes, and performs the reenactment in Germany. They came to see the reenactment near the actual location. After the battle we went to Mr. Nakayama's for one of his famous barbecues -- always fun.
There are many people it will be difficult to say "good-bye" to when it is time to leave.The Nakayamas, all of our Japanese "daughters" and many new friends, among others. However, we are ready to come home, and are looking forward to being reunited with family and friends, and to having a real washing machine, dryer, ovens, dishwasher, garden, inexpensive groceries and other goods, and people conversing in English.
Meanwhile we have been very busy and probably will become busier before we leave. Marie is now teaching five classes at the YMCA, has five private students at home, and spends the better part of Friday afternoon in calligraphy class, in addition to giving cooking classes on demand. The classes at the Y include two adult classes which are pretty advanced with their English and want to learn as much as they can about cultural diversity in America, and want to discuss all kinds of issues regarding the comparison of Eastern and Western culture, as well as current events. (The last class discussed whether war is inevitable and the fact that many things are omitted in history books -- topics that came out of their concern about what is going on in Okinawa.) It will be very interesting. The other classes are children and lots of fun.
Tom is teaching 7th grade in addition to some 9th and 10th grade classes. (At Eiwa, teachers never know from one school year to the next what grade they will be teaching or which home room they will have!) He is enjoying the 7th graders and their enthusiasm. Also, several students have adopted him, wanting to discuss American sports. Since they have cable TV and we don't, they frequently lend him tapes of basketball and baseball games from America. (They request that he critique the games so the girls can work on their English!) Eiwa keeps him very busy, and we are learning more dramatically how teachers are married to their school in Japan and have little home life.
In fact, we have decided that many teachers don't want to go home, and therefore will think of any excuse to call a meeting at the end of the day on the last day of school before a holiday, or on Friday before the weekend. It is not unusual for the meetings to last until 7 or so - and they frequently are not announced until the last minute. After arriving in school yesterday, Tom learned about a 4:30 meeting for that afternoon. This morning (Friday!) he found out there will be a junior high faculty meeting at 3:40. In Japan the teachers pretty much run the school and have a lot of power, but one price is that they are at school from early morning until late at night much of the time, and it is not unusual for them to work 6 or 7 days a week.
In addition to his other teaching duties, Tom will be going on a retreat with the 9th grade class for a couple of days next week -- just part of his responsibilities -- as was the trip to Okinawa and Nagasaki. The retreat is at one of the 5 lakes near Mt. Fuji and a beautiful spot. A couple of weeks ago we went there with the other teachers to check it out. (It consumed a whole Saturday -- but we are not complaining because it was a beautiful trip.)
We are also teaching the Ethics class together (2 classes a week) and enjoy doing that. The chaplain is pleased that we are working together with that class. He thinks we are good role models for the students and wants them to see a healthy, respectful relationship in action. (He said he is too traditional to do that himself!) Topics we will be discussing include general relationship issues, discrimination in general, gender discrimination, treatment of the elderly and people with disabilities, bullying, drugs and alcohol, among others. It is a fairly new concept to be teaching this in Japan, and we are very careful to be respectful of the culture, and not try to impose any values, but instead help them get in touch with their own values. The chaplain expressed some uneasiness to Tom about the teaching of discrimination. He let Tom know that he would feel easier if we didn't touch on discrimination issues that affect Kofu -- Koreans, foreigners and burakumin -- outcast Japanese. He would prefer that we teach about discrimination in other places. He also suggested to Tom that he teach about Canadian society because they don't have any such problems! (Where could he have gotten that idea?) All in all, it has been going very well.
We have had some interesting day trips, including several that Marie's friends organized. One was to the family temple of one of her students, Mrs. Naito. Mrs.
Naito's father-in-law was a well-known calligrapher in the area, and Mrs. Naito is also a calligrapher. We saw calligraphy that he had done many years ago and some of her work from 20 years ago. At the temple we had a vegetarian meal that featured tempura cherry blossom, sesame tofu, and all sorts of unusual, artistically arranged foods. The temple (Hokoji in Enzan) and the vegetarian meal were featured on a national TV special later in the same week.
A couple of weeks ago we went to see Taeko, the first Eiwa/PV exchange student (1974-75) in Tokyo. She took us to the restaurant that Tom is fond of recalling as one of his most memorable moments from Japan. (For those of you who have heard -- remember about his eating the live lobster?!) Well, shortly after meeting us at the train station, Taeko announced that she had made reservations to take us to the lobster restaurant. She asked if we liked lobster. (One of those double binds that our Japanese friends often put us in. How does one be polite but honest?) We both said "Yes" but not "live" lobster. Her response was that she had already ordered it and she hoped we could eat it.
When we arrived at the exclusive restaurant, we were escorted to a private room and had personal service throughout, with elegant and tasty dishes. But ---!!! It is disconcerting to eat the tail of a lobster, as it is on the plate moving from side to side, antennae moving, and its eyes looking at you balefully!! The things one must do in order to be culturally appropriate and not offend anyone. Fortunately, there was no sign of the lobster brains that Tom had eaten during his previous visit. Besides we knew that this meal cost an arm and a leg -- so how could we be anything but gracious?! There are many gray areas about being culturally sensitive. Perhaps a former Eiwa teacher from Canada had the healthiest attitude. When she was confronted with eating a raw, baby octopus she said, "I've lived here long enough that I don't have to eat that."
Our visit with Taeko was moving. She set the stage for the other students and is very special. (At this point we have had contact with 19 of the 23 students from Kofu who spent a year in our area.) It was good to see her and hope to see her again before too long. Also during our visit with Taeko, she took us to the building which is the most expensive piece of real estate in Japan (a calligraphy shop, and offices) where we browsed and went to a calligraphy show.
Taeko has invited us to the home of a relative near Kofu who is "famous" for making the inkstones in which you mix the sumi (the black ink for calligraphy.) Now we are in another double bind. The inkwells are very expensive, and we can't afford to buy one of any quality. On the other hand, we don't want her to feel that she needs to buy one for us. (This is the same family which gave Tom and Phyllis a very expensive kimono. The kimono is now at the Reading Museum.) But we don't want to insult her by saying we are not interested, especially since we are. That is the kind of situation that we often find ourselves in with friends and acquaintances in Japan.
An interesting observation about food. We, along with many people in the West, have always thought of the Japanese diet as very healthy. However, Taeko mentioned while we were at the restaurant that sushi is not very healthy at all, because it has a lot of sugar in it. We have noticed since that there is a great deal of salt and sugar used in cooking. Very few milk products are consumed, and we wonder if the "bent posture" of many of the older people is from osteoporosis rather than from working in the rice fields, as Tom had always thought. Many people have black teeth and gums - even young students. Years ago, Tom was told by a dentist that was caused by eating so much rice. (White, processed rice for three meals every day.) But we wonder if it may have anything to do with a calcium deficit. A noontime ritual Tom has observed is the very thorough brushing of teeth by teachers after they have eaten lunch. A number of students also brush their teeth carefully in the hallway sinks after eating.
Older people frequently use contraptions that looks like a baby stroller at first glance. However, it serves as a shopping cart, walking aid for balance and support, and a seat when one gets tired. It is a very clever piece of equipment, but it is sad to see so many doubled over, bow-legged people who seem to have a great deal of pain. (It does not slow them down, though!)
Perhaps the highlight of our whole year in Japan is the kite festival in Hamamatsu. It is something Tom has wanted to see for more than 20 years, but finally got around to doing. It was well worth the wait, and now we are wondering how soon we can go back. What excitement!
Hamamatsu, one of the friendliest towns in Japan, is the largest city in Shizuoka Prefecture (the prefecture which shares Mt. Fuji with Yamanashi, and directly south of us.) Besides being famous for the kite festival, it also produces most of the musical instruments in Japan and just about all of the motorcycles. (Home of Yamaha and Suzuki.) Therefore, the festival includes brass bands and harmonica competitions (one activity was a 5 hour "harmonica relay" which included soloists and a 20 piece harmonica "orchestra"), along with taiko drum performances and traditional dancing, assorted parades, and much revelry.
The festival began in the mid 1500s when a ruler flew a kite with the name of his son - to celebrate his birth. Now it is held May 3-5 to coincide with Children's day, and to mark the beginning of summer. May 5th was traditionally celebrated as Boys' Day. In recent years the name was changed because its activities so overshadowed Girls' Day, held on March 3rd. Boys' Day included the displaying of huge carp flags outside of homes fortunate enough to have boys and the flying of kites. Each kite flown at Hamamatsu is dedicated to a boy of the neighborhood who was born in the previous year. We saw several babies, dressed in happi coats, being tossed in the air as "their" kites were prepared for launching.
Huge kites (about 3X3 meters) from more than 161 town blocks are brought to the sand dunes on the edge of town for the 3 days of kite flying and kite fighting. Each kite takes about 10 people to fly, but the whole neighborhood turns out dressed in matching happi coats and headbands - including very young children. One of our favorite moments was when one team invited us to join them in flying their kite -- Tom was excited - Marie was scared. Another special moment was when a man gave us his headband. There were many generous and welcoming gestures like that throughout our stay, and we reveled in the organized chaos as much as any of the participants.
At any one time, there can be thirty or forty giant kites flying. They are reeled out by heavy-duty winches with hundreds of feet of quarter inch line. With a good, steady wind, the kites can go out more than a mile. Part of the flying is to try to cut the lines of other kites. Sometime intentionally, often accidentally, lines get tangled and the kites come crashing down. The making of the kites is a year-long neighborhood project and it is very sad to see a kite come down after only a few minutes in the air It can also be quite dangerous. The kites are big and heavy, the ribs are made of split bamboo and they move rapidly in the strong breezes.We saw a boy get hit on the forehead by one and we saw a man holding a towel to his head being carrying to the first aid tent. (An ambulance is on duty). Also, men trip and fall trying to control the kites, which can, literally, lift a person off of the ground.
At night, neighborhood floats, each carrying musicians playing traditional kabuki music, form a colorful, festive, and loud parade. Each of the floats is accompanied by the frenzied merry-making of the entire neighborhood (again in happi garb) and children and adults playing a rousing, strain on their bugles. The bugle playing is incessant and the same tune for all groups. It is a wonder we are not still hearing it in our heads during the day and in our dreams. (If you are interested, please ask to see of video of this festival. It really is difficult to describe.)
As we prepare to come home we are aware that we will miss the Olympics in Atlanta. We have lost track of the American Olympians who are favored but have heard much about some Japanese athletes who are touted as hopefuls for medals. One is a young woman judo competitor, another is a marathoner. The country (especially young people) are very excited that the soccer team qualified. But most of all we wish we could see our Kenyan friend, Solomon, compete. He is running with the Kenyan team, and we didn't have a chance to see him before he left Japan to train with his team.
Meanwhile, Japan is preparing for the '98 Winter Olympics and Australia is preparing for the 2000 Olympics. Japan may have "bitten off more than it can chew" or maybe they just won't get it together until they are down to the wire. They offered to pay $1000 to each athlete to help with transportation costs. The original offer to cover all travel costs of all of the athletes was made in order to help win the games, but it was a time when the yen was strong and before the "bubble" burst in the economy. Now they are wondering if they can afford it. The Olympics will be held in Nagano Prefecture, our neighbor to the west. We know various people who go skiing in Nagano, but no one we ask seems to know where the games are going to be held. That seems odd, since the site of the 2000 games is already on the list of things for tourists to see in Australia.
Wa. It seems that it is impossible to understand anything about Japan without understanding Wa. Sometimes the kanji character for wa is used alone as an abbreviation for Japan. We in the Western countries may know that it loosely translates as harmony. Along with that we may conjure up romantic thoughts of peace, love, or equality - mutual respect. Serenity? Internal meditation instead of the harried movement and worry of the West. That completely misses the mark. Wa means order and conformity -- Harmony in the sense that everything has a place and everything should stay in its place -- "Don't make waves." The longer we stay, the more we understand that concept -- and can argue both the good and bad points of that idea. But it is the underpinning of this ancient country which continues to impress us with its history and culture and gentleness --as well as infuriate us from time to time. This was brought home to us again as we watch the furor at the Mitsubishi plant in the US and the typical way in which the Japanese are dealing with it. We weren't surprised when one of the victims of sexual harassment reported that she was told she was at fault because she had upset the "harmony" of the company.
We are excited about the upcoming visit of Marie's two nephews, Jonathan and Ben. We are hoping to provide them with a cultural experience that will be meaningful. They will be coming for the first few of weeks in July, just when we will be getting ready to come home. (Probably via Thailand, but our plans are not firmed up yet.)
Take care,
With Love,
Tom and Marie
Update: September 1999. We have such wonderful memories of the Hamamatsu kite festival that we plan to go back next spring. If any of you are interested, we highly recommend the Meitetsu Hotel in Hamamatsu. It is easy walking distance from everything and we are very impressed with the hospitality and service they have offered us. We already have reservations for next May.
