JORDAN
We were going to have five days in Jordan and most of it on the road. We knew it was going to go by quickly, and we wanted to soak up all that we could. Our first stop was Amman.
Meanwhile the "grapevine" already had started. The "tour director" (self-appointed) informed everyone that when we arrived in Petra that we would have to walk 8.2 miles. People's anxiety began spilling out all over the place. But we knew that we were in the "womb" of the travel organization and they would never plan something that grueling for the senior citizens on this tour. We just love that kind of chatter...
We wondered how our new guide would deal with this too large, unwieldy group who had been together for too long. For some of us it would be almost 1 month with the same people, and most people wouldn't choose to spend a whole month even with family members! And everyone was sick of buffet meals by this time! The next five days could be interesting for more than one reason...
View of Amman from our hotel window
Upon arriving in Jordan we instantly had a good feeling about the country. We were fairly familiar with the history of the country and especially the past King and his American born wife, Queen Noor, so we knew something about the politics and the precarious geographic location it occupies. We both had had enormous respect for King Hussein and how well he governed his country and we knew of his wife's devotion to the country, to educating people about Jordan and Islam, and her tireless work on behalf of children, women and people with handicaps. We learned more of that as we traveled.
Tom was especially interested in seeing Petra but beyond that we didn't know what to expect. We found the country delightful and the people warm and friendly. Of the three countries on this trip this was the one we thought we definitely would like to return to.
Amman contains about 40% of Jordan's population of 5.3 million. Almost all of the people are Arab, with a substantial percentage being Palestinian. Another 500,000 are refugees from the 1990-1991 Gulf War. We did not have much time to explore the city on our own, as our time there was limited. It seems to be a modern city, beset by expansion problems.
Our time in Amman was spent exploring the citadel. This is the site of the first settlements (about 10,000 years ago) and successive building by later inhabitants. It offers a commanding view of the surrounding area and it is easy to see why forts, Roman temples, Mosques and Byzantine churches were built there.
View of Amman from Citadel
2000 year old Greco-Roman temple
Anas was the best guide in a lifetime of traveling. He possessed all of the attributes of an outstanding guide. He was enthusiastic, knowledgeable, personable, and patient --- a natural teacher and comedic performer. We were completely taken by him when we visited Mt. Nebo and he proceeded to explain how the region was connected to the major trade routes, including the Kings Highway in Jordan and the Silk Road which originated in China. He held us enthralled as he talked by drawing a map of the various routes in the dirt with his foot. We still hold that image in our minds. He was exactly what we, and this whole group needed at this time. He kept everyone in line and his passion for his country was contagious.
Our next stop was Madaba. Anas told us that it is the most important Christian center in Jordan and has long been an example of religious tolerance. There, St. George's church is best known for its outstanding mosaics. It contains a remarkable mosaic map of all of the major biblical sites from Lebanon to Egypt. Constructed about 560 B.C., it consisted of more than two million pieces and was about 50 feet by 20 feet. Its accuracy has aided historians in accurately placing some holy sites, including the site of Jesus' baptism. Throughout the rest of the journey through Jordan, and in retrospect, our travels in Israel and Egypt, we were able to call up the memory of the mosaic to place the sites visited. What a perspective.
St George's Church at Madaba
Mosaic tile in St. Georges Church at Madaba
From Madaba, we visited Mt. Nebo from which Moses saw the Promised Land. Standing where Moses may have stood and looking out across the Jordan Valley towards the Dead Sea and Jerusalem was a unique and moving experience.
ETERNAL PETRA
For most people traveling to Jordan, the highlight of the trip is a visit to Petra. As our guidebook said, "If you can only go to one place in Jordan, make it Petra." Known to most Americans through an "Indiana Jones" movie (you see it only in the last few minutes of the movie), Petra offers a succession of spectacular sights.
It is only accessible via a narrow gorge through the protective hills. It is best to walk through the gorge to fully appreciate the experience. The textures of the rock formations and the variety of colors can best be taken in by a casual stroll. If you can't walk the mile or so, carriages are available. Do not hesitate to ask the driver to stop so that you can take pictures or just look at the natural beauty. In addition to the horse drawn carriages, you can ride by camel, donkey or horseback. And if you start walking and get tired, rest assured there will be plenty of each of those conveyances coming along to offer you a ride!
All along the walk through the gorge there are magnificent views -- impossible to capture with photographs, but each begging you to stop and gape or try to catch the image for posterity.
At the end of the gorge is the magnificent "Treasury". Carved out of solid rock, it is in fact a mausoleum. Actually, all of the building you see are burial sites. The large, active trading city is gone. The homes and shops built of stone and wood have long since vanished.
First View of the Treasury
The Treasury
Beyond the Treasury there are numerous other sites to explore in Petra and we had a good part of the day to do so.
A Bedouin boy with his herd of goats.
Even cell phones couldn't take away from the uniqueness of Petra.
Back at our hotel Tom posed with handsome Jordanians, our driver and security guard. We had a great deal of fun with our bus driver as he continually flirted with Marie. It became a standing joke that Tom was going to return to the U.S. alone. The driver said he had two wives and wanted Marie for his third. Meanwhile we told Anas to convey to him that before this trip we were certain that the most handsome men in the world were Turkish but now we had to reconsider.
When we first met our security guard, Aiad,Tom asked him where his weapon was. He said it was under the bus with the baggage. He was a very kind young man, who was very attentive to us. His father was a Bedouin who had joined the Jordanian army to give his family more opportunities. As a parting gift, he gave us a copy of his wedding picture with his beautiful bride.
From the hotel we only had to walk a few steps to see glorious overviews of the Petra landscape, or simply go to the lobby which overlooked the whole valley. We were able to see a fantastic sunset and sunrise in the area. But in any light it was breathtaking and the colors changed dramatically as the sun shifted, sometimes more red, sometimes an array of different shades and colors.
Jordanians also enjoy the Dead Sea and that was our next stop. We stopped at the Dead Sea Spa Hotel where the beach and other facilities were vastly superior to those we saw in Israel. If fact, two more hotels (large and 5 star) were being constructed here. On the road to and from the Spa Hotel we passed a number of factories that were extracting minerals -- mostly potash -- from the Dead Sea.
Again we chose to stroll along the Dead Sea and view the scene from a distance rather than go into the water. But we did wonder what it would feel like to completely cover our bodies in black mud like some of the people in the photo.
Back in suburban Amman we were able to get a little bit more of a feel for the area.
From our hotel we explored a mile of so in each direction. We were intrigued by the modern mosque we saw in the distance and decided to walk to it to get a picture.
The "Cane...anites".....
